Although not absolutely necessary, for most, it is preferable to train your pet rabbit to use a litterbox. It will make clean ups much easier, which in turn may help keep down the odors. It is also less expensive to change the litter in the box more often and the remaining litter will probably last a bit longer. Your bunny's home will definitely be more agreeable to be close to, and your pet rabbit will likely "take care of business" in the area of the litter pan. Once litter trained, you will be happy that and your bunny took the time to train! In addition to the actual training, you will need to decide on a type of rabbit litter to use. The House Rabbit Society suggests the following about rabbit litters: "What types of litter should I use? It depends on what’s available in your area and what your rabbit’s habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter: most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes rabbits will always nibble some of the litter rabbit urine has a very strong odor. House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh (Natural only), Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday’s News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box." Read the entire article: Litter Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch
0 Comments
Pet rabbits make wonderful additions to your family, as long as you understand that bunnies are different as pets than dogs or cats. There is a right way and a wrong way to interact with a pet rabbit, and keep in mind that they are very social animals that really want to spend time with their pet parents and family. Small children are not the best to mix with pet rabbits, and most pet rabbits do not like to be scooped up, cuddled or held. Instinctively, rabbits are prey animals so this behavior is just a natural reaction to escape. The best way to play and interact with your pet rabbit is explained by Indianahrs.org: "It’s important to remember that rabbits are prey animals. Prey animals interact with their environment very differently than predators like cats and dogs. In general, rabbits do not like to be picked up. The act of bending over them and grabbing them by their ribs to pick them up is very similar to being picked up by a hawk – scary!! The best way to interact with your rabbit is on the floor. Sit in the room while bunny is out to play and she will soon come investigate you. She will like to be petted sitting next to you, but not necessarily while being carried in your arms! If you choose a cage or pen with a sideopening door and put it on the floor or provide a ramp to a taller cage, you can let bunny in and out for playtime without ever picking her up! If you are going to pick up your rabbit, make sure you do it correctly. The best way is to place one hand under her rib cage and the other under her bottom, scooping her back legs so she can’t kick. This method will protect her fragile backbone while protecting you from those strong kicking back legs and sharp nails. It is also important to wear an appropriate shirt when handling a rabbit to avoid being scratched by nails as bunny tries to get away! Or just encourage or herd bunny into a pet carrier or box and move him that way. Keep in mind your rabbit will likely be easier to interact with and handle once spayed or neutered. Spaying and neutering reduces hormone-driven behaviors like lunging, mounting, spraying, and boxing. Spaying also protects female bunnies from uterine cancer, which can be quite common in older unspayed rabbits." Read the entire article: What Is It Like to Have a Pet Rabbit? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Traditionally, many people think of a dog or cat as the family pet, but rabbits make great family pets too. Like any other pet, it is important to understand the commitment of time and money necessary to care properly for a new pet bunny. There are many great groups where you can adopt a pet rabbit, and we have a link to an adoption finder on our website. Once yu decide that adopting a pet rabbit is a good choice for your family, you need to learn more about rabbits as family pets. Love That Pet offers the following on rabbit care" "In addition to the many coat patterns, there are also several sizes to choose from. For example, dwarf lops and mini lops are very popular, and they are small: The mini doesn’t get bigger than 1.6kg (3.5lb), and the dwarf only gets to 2.5kg (5lb). These are the rabbits whose ears are very long and droop down to the ground. Many people, when they think of pet rabbits, are thinking of lops. By contrast, the Flemish giant is well-named. Often topping 6kg (14lbs), this rabbit is larger than most pet cats and many kinds of dog (up to and including some spaniels). Unlike the lops, Flemish giants have ears that stand upright. A little bigger than a dwarf lop and much smaller than a Flemish giant, the “rex” weighs in at approximately 3kg (6.5lb) and is noted for its curly fur. All breeds are suitable as pets, but young children must always be supervised when they are visiting with Bunny Buddy. It is very easy to injure a rabbit by handling her awkwardly, and it is even easier to scare her. It’s rough being at the bottom of the food chain! If she is scared or hurt, she will bite or scratch to defend herself." Read the entire article: Rabbit Care Guide Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit./ly/BuyRabbitHutch Once you have decided to provide a loving home to a pet rabbit (or any animal in need for that matter), you have not only made a great choice, but you will also gain a great satisfaction that comes with adopting a pet. Without sounding too "political", there are so many reasons to adopt, rather than buy a pet, and if most people adopted, there would be less reason to breed for financial gain. With that said, congratulations on deciding to adopt a pet bunny! Now what? We found a great resource that is actually sponsored by Purina, Bayer and the Petco Foundation, that can actually help you find a rabbit in your area to adopt. Adopt A Pet says the folowing about rabbit adoption: "First most, understand that no matter what, even if you buy a Rabbit for sale, or adopt, as a new pet owner it is your responsibility to care for the Rabbit it’s entire lifespan. Part of that responsibility is taking time to understand the basic needs of a Rabbit. At the top of that list should be getting know the diet of a Rabbit. Find out how often and what a Rabbit needs to eat. Next, what shelter do you need to provide? Get to know what habitat a Rabbit is accustom to, what temperature will the Rabbit need to maintain, and what range of temperatures are acceptable for a Rabbit to survive. It’s usually a good idea to get to know a little more about Rabbit habits, temperament and relationship with humans before adopting a Rabbit. For example, can you handle a Rabbit. What is an indicator if a Rabbit is being aggressive and senses fear? Some pets will maintain much more happiness as long as they live socially, does a Rabbit need a companion pet in order to live happily? What exercise does a Rabbit need regularly? Rabbit adoption can be an enriching experience, and is a big decision. Whatever pet you adopt will demand certain lifestyle changes, and a financial commitment. Estimating the monthly costs of owning a pet is just as important as making sure you have the time and motivation to feed the Rabbit when necessary, and provide a safe environment to live." Read the full article and start your search at: What To Consider Before Adopting a Rabbit Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Maybe the first question to answer is - what is a Rabbitat? A Rabbitat is a sort of "Rabbit Playground", sufficiant to provide for the basic outdoor instincts of a pet rabbit, but in a structured and safe manner. Your Rabitat should provide your bunny with safe outdoor space to dig, chew, tunnel, expolore and graze, to name a few activities. The concept remains that a pet rabbit should still live indoors, but allowing her to have some outdoor playtime in your Rabbitat will give her a chance to live like a - rabbit! PetFinder offers the following on building a Rabbitat" "There’s no such thing as a blueprint for the perfect rabbitat, but there are a few features for the do-it-yourselfer to consider. Dirt – Domestic rabbits are descended from European rabbits, who live in groups in warrens, an underground network of interconnecting burrows and tunnels that they dig in the earth. Diggable dirt or ordinary garden soil should be high on the list of things you provide for your house rabbits’ happiness. Fresh-cut greens – Greens should not be a major component of your rabbit’s diet, but access to a variety of fresh foliage has both dietary and emotional benefits for rabbits. The objective here is to offer cut greens and flowers in a natural upright manner so that rabbits can stand up and stretch to reach the succulent leaves on the tops of the branches. Security – Your rabbitat must confine your rabbits while also providing shelter from the weather and protection from predators and the unwelcome attention of other animals and possibly unkind children. As prey animals, rabbits instinctively avoid open spaces where they feel unprotected, so locate your rabbitat in a shady corner of your yard, out of view of busy streets, neighbors’ dogs and overhanging tree branches where cats or birds of prey may hover. Even if secure inside an enclosure, a rabbit can die of fright if a predator is able to menace her at close range." Read the entire article: Designing a Rabbit Playground Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Welcome to the wonderful world of having a pet rabbit! Pet bunnies make great and loving pets, but it is important to help train them like you would other pets, so they know what is acceptable behavior inside your home. When it comes to chewing and digging, both of which are natural bunny behaviors, it is important that they are trained for two main reasons. The first one is danger. If a pet rabbit chewed on an electrical cord, the result could be very bad. The second reason is damage. Naturally, you do not want your pet rabbit to damage carpeting, furniture, or anything else in your home! The House Rabbit Society offers the following: "During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to her home and let her (or them) come out when she chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don’t interfere with her if she wants to explore. And watch her carefully throughout the time she is out of her cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren’t simply challenging the rabbit to break through). If possible, provide something with a similar (or better) taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn’t move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn’t ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs. The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small “corner” or “tunnel” with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end-opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so her body runs the length of the box (providing she is large enough that her body doesn’t fit cross- wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging box (see the litter faq). Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures that they are, quickly learn." Read the entire article here: Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com To fully enjoy the relationship with your pet rabbit, it is best to keep your bunny indoors and to intereact on a daily basis. The time you spend playing, petting and grooming your bunny will pay off in a more pleasurable relationship for all. If you have the space to have a rabbit hutch indoors, then that will give your bunny plenty of personal space. If not, then choosing a rabbit cage, which I prefer to call a rabbit home, is a great alternative. You can also use a puppy training crate, providing it has a design that is both safe and workable for your pet rabbit. To choose the right rabbit home (cage), wikiHow offers the following suggestions: "Get an indoor rabbit cage. Indoor rabbit cages can often be restrictive for your rabbit. Make sure you have enough space in the cage for your rabbit. You should also be able to leave the cage open so he can get plenty of exercise. Give your rabbit enough space in his cage. There needs to be enough room for him to move around in the cage and lie down. The minimum size is three hops long and two hops wide. Of course, the bigger the cage, the better it will be for your rabbit. Make sure your rabbit has space for food, water, a litter box, and toys. He will need things to do and to eat and drink in his cage. Try a cage with a front door for your rabbit. Purchase a cage that opens either from the inside and/or outside. Cages with doors that open out enable your rabbit to come and go when he wants, whereas doors that only push in mean you have to get the rabbit out of the cage yourself. Make sure your cage has protection for the rabbit’s feet. Cage flooring can injure the rabbit’s feet, so provide soft material that can cover the cage flooring, such as an old blanket or towel." Read the rest of their informative rabbit care article: How To Choose A Rabbit Cage Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com The answer here, is a cautious "Yes". Some pets will just not mix well and good common sense needs to be used in these cases for the safety and wellness of all pets and people involved. There are some situations where pet rabbits can be introduced and get along with other pets in the household, such as other rabbits, cats, guinea pigs and even dogs. You must take the time to understand how the bonding process works, and take the time to introduce your pets slowly and carefully. The goal is a happy household without unnessary stress and a safe environment for all involved!
To begin the bonding process, Pet Care Tips.net offers the following: "The first thing you will need to do is find a companion for your rabbit. Male with female pairs seem to work the best for compatibility but female to female can also work. Male rabbits seldom get along with other male rabbits unless started as littermates. All rabbits should be spayed or neutered beforeintroductions begin. Start the bonding process before the rabbits are allowed to interact. Place the rabbits in separate cages in sight of each other. Let them get used to the presence of another rabbit for several days before actually letting them meet. Rabbit introductions should be done in a neutral territory. This is a place the existing rabbit has never entered. The room should be large enough for the rabbits to move around yet small enough so the rabbits can interact. Newly introduced rabbits may go beyond hand shaking; they may fight. You should have a water spray bottle and towels handy to break up any fighting. Do not break up fighting with your bare hands, as the rabbit may not differentiate whom he is attacking. Discontinue bonding session before bites result in injury. Rabbits may chase and show dominance behavior (mounting) during the introductions. These are normal activities to determine which rabbit will be the leader." Read the entire bonding process here: How to Get Rabbits to Get Along with Other Rabbits & Other Pets Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com As a proud pet parent of a pet rabbit, you will want to provide the best quality housing for your bunny that you can. We always encourage people to think of rabbits as an indoor pet, to provide them with a higher degree of safety and protection, plus to provide for more family interaction. Rabbit hutches work great in a den, bedroom, or in the basement or garage, which are better than outside. No matter where you place your rabbit hutch, The Rabbit House offers a few tips on choosing or building the right one for your pet rabbit:
"Many rabbit hutches have doors that are secured with a twisting section of wood. Unfortunately, this can easily become loose or a fox (or other predator) scratching at the door can open it. This style of hutch door catch should be replaced with proper slide bolts and in some cases with the addition of a padlock too. These can also be handy for preventing young children opening the hutch unsupervised. Another potential problem area can be the mesh sections of the hutch - this should be securely fastened and preferably weld mesh rather than chicken wire. You can attach mesh using U-shaped nails available from DIY stores. Mesh that has small holes (under half an inch) is best - larger diameters can allow cats (or other animals) to put their paws inside and claw at the rabbit. Rabbit hutches need to be raised of the ground to protect them from rising damp. If your rabbit hutch doesn't already have legs then you can make your own or some hutch manufacturers also sell separate legs. Another alternative are castors (wheels) designed for cabinets which should be available from your local DIY store. A lower tech solution is a brick at each corner. Where possible avoid hutches with thin plywood walls - these might be slightly cheaper but will need replacing much sooner than a strongly built tongue and groove hutch. Check the walls regularly for water stains and wear. The protective stain/varnish will need maintenance approximately every 1-2 years. Hutches should not be all wire; they must have an enclosed box/bed area for your rabbit hide in when frightened, feel secure when sleeping and snuggle up in cold weather. Hutches should have solid floors rather than mesh, which is bad for rabbit's feet. To make the floor easy to clean and protect it from urine, I would suggest fitting lino style floor covering. You may be able to obtain off cuts or pieces from the end of a roll cheaply by asking local kitchen/bathroom flooring suppliers. A slightly tougher alternative is vinyl safety flooring, which is used in many vet practices; it's a harder, more rigid, material and is non-slip. To fit the flooring you'll need to cut it to fit the base of the hutch and then fix it in place with either double sided tape or glue (tape is easier). To prevent your rabbit chewing or digging and lifting the lino you'll need to fit edging strips or battens where the wall meets the floor - like a skirting board. The edging will also hide any wonky bits when you didn't cut straight. There will be a variety of styles available in your local DIY store and they can be nailed into position." Read the entre article here: The Rabbit Hutch Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com As people become increasingly aware of how important a healthy diet is for us, it is logical that many pet parents are looking for more fruits and vegetable options to give to their pets. Pet rabbits are no different. Apples are certainly a tasty, yet healthy snack (or part of a meal) for us, so the question comes up - Can my pet rabbit eat apples?
A pet rabbit's main diet should consist of grassy hay, but Rabbit .org suggests the following guidelines for feeding apples or other fruits to your pet bunny: "Fruits can also be fed in small amounts. In the wild these would be special high calorie foods obtained only at certain times of the year. Fruits make great training treats! You also might choose to hand-feed the fruit portion of the diet as part of developing a close bond with your bunny and also to make sure he has an appetite every day. It is a great way to see if your bunny is feeling good when you observe if he takes his fruit treat every morning! If he doesn’t want to eat his treat, it is time to call your veterinarian. Remember that dried fruits are about 3 times as concentrated as the fresh variety so feed less of those. Rabbits, like many animals naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods such as those high in sugar or starch. This is a protective device from the wild days when they could never be sure when or if they would get the next meal. When a plant would produce fruit, it is for a limited time and all the animals in the area would want to gobble these gems up quickly! This means that rabbits cannot limit themselves when given sugary or starchy foods if left to their own devices! Overfeeding fruits can result in a weight gain or GI upset so it is up to you to feed these foods in limited amounts. An approximate amount of fruit to feed your rabbit is a teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight daily in one feeding or divided into multiple feedings. IMPORTANT: Before introducing any fresh foods to a rabbit it is best if he has been eating grass hay for a minimum of 2 weeks. The grass hay will help to get his GI tract motility and flora in good working order so that he will be able to accept new foods more easily. When introducing new fresh foods to any rabbit’s diet it is best to go slowly to allow the gastrointestinal tract and all its important microorganisms to adjust. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. It is rare for a rabbit that has been on a hay diet first, to have any problems using this method, but if you note softer stools that persist over a couple of days, then you might want to remove that food from your bunny’s diet. Keep a list as you go of the foods that your rabbit has successfully eaten; you will then have a handy shopping list when you go to the store!" The entire article can be read at Suggested Vegetables and Fruits for a Rabbit Diet Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies from BuyRabbitHutch.com |
AuthorFollow the Buy Rabbit Hutch .com Blog for Interesting, Timely and Informative Info about Pet Rabbits!. Lowest Prices, Free Shipping, PayPal accepted and a Money Back Guarantee on all products! Rabbit Feed, Treats, Hay Bedding and Litter too. Start your search here and save money today! Archives
February 2017
Categories
All
|
Buy Rabbit Hutch.com | Buy Rabbit Hutch.com |
Photos used under Creative Commons from AlishaV, Rusty Clark - On the Air M-F 8am-noon, AlishaV, Dallas Krentzel, MeL *, quinn.anya