Before making any decision to get a pet rabbit for your family, take the time to educate yourself about her needs and her care. Pet rabbits are not an impulse purchase, such as for Easter or other holidays. Pet rabbits may not be the best choice for a family with younger children, as kids like to carry around and "love" their pets, which can end up being harmful for both child and bunny!
Pet rabbits require the same consideration, caring, love, work, expense and commitment that goes into the choice to add any dog, cat or other animal as a member of your family. Learn about what it takes to be a responsible pet parent, in this case a responsible pet rabbit parent, ahead of time! The following information is from the Petfinder.com website about "Choosing a Bunny Buddy" “There are more than four dozen recognized breeds of domestic rabbits, which vary in size, color, fur type, body type and ear type. Weight can range from about two pounds to more than 20 pounds. Many breeds are very striking in appearance, and they attract buyers with their good looks. As with other species, however, the mixed breed often has a kind of offbeat appeal, and what breeders see as faults can add charm and distinctiveness. Owners of mixed breeds delight, for example, in their “unicorn lops” (one ear up, one ear down) or “helicop lops” (both ears straight out to the side). A frequent misunderstanding is that smaller breeds require less living space than larger ones, but even the smallest dwarf bunny can be extremely energetic and needs room to run. Temperaments of individual rabbits—even within a breed—can vary tremendously. The larger breeds (many of whom are sold as “meat” or “lab” rabbits) are sometimes described as “gentle giants,” with calm and placid dispositions nicely suited to family life. Male rabbits tend to spray, and females tend to be territorial, but these patterns are significantly reduced or eliminated by neutering. A mature (older than one year), neutered rabbit is often a better choice as a family pet than a younger rabbit, whose “raging hormones” can result in undesirable behaviors. All in all, the best way to select a companion rabbit is to set aside preconceptions regarding breed, sex and age, and to meet the rabbit and interact with him for long enough to get a feel for his individual personality.” The entire article is available here "Do Rabbits Make Good Pets?"
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People love pets! And that is a wonderful thing, as both benefit in many proven ways including reduced stress, health, enjoyment, friendship, love and more. Just like their larger dog and cat counterparts, rabbits can make great pets too! Perosnally, I think that pet rabbits should be considered as indoor pets, which will help nuture the love and bond between your pet bunny and her adopted family!
You may have heard the term House Rabbit, but what does that actually mean? The Petfinder website offers a great look in their article "Do Rabbits Make Good Pets" "Rabbits can indeed make wonderful pets—for the right people. Pet owners frequently characterize themselves in terms of their animals—“I’m a dog person” or “I’m a cat person.” But exactly what is a “rabbit person”? According to Jennifer Saver, D.V.M. (herself a rabbit owner), a rabbit person is someone who enjoys observing as much as handling, and who does not get overly upset at a rabbit’s natural tendencies, such as chewing and digging. Rabbits have strikingly distinctive personalities. They can be as playful and silly as puppies or kittens, as independent and fascinating as cats, or as loyal and openly affectionate as dogs. And long-time rabbit owners claim that domestic rabbits are, in their own way, every bit as smart as cats and dogs. Dana Krempels, Ph.D., an evolutionary biologist at the University of Miami, sees daily examples of this in her group of 16 rabbits. “Their intelligence is very different from other species” she says, “but is just as adaptive and just as elegant.” Rabbits can easily learn to respond to their names, as well as to simple words, and they learn to use litterboxes readily. They are adroit at getting over, under, around or through barriers intended to restrict them, and some owners seem almost proud of their rabbits’ ability to negotiate household obstacles. There are also those owners who, thinking that they have succeeded in training their rabbits, discover that their rabbits have actually trained them. Ann Casama of Fair Lawn, NJ, conditioned her rabbit, Patrick, to return to his cage by ringing a toy bell and offering him a treat, but within a short period of time, Patrick began ringing the bell on his own and waiting expectantly for his treat. If Casama does not respond as quickly as Patrick would like, he rings the bell again." You can read the full article here Do Rabbits Make Good Pets? Which rabbit litter should you choose for your pet bunny? There are many commerically available rabbit litters available today, but they all fall into small groups based on what materials they are made from. Some are made from wood, some paper pulp and some even from ground up corn cobs! So which type would be best for your pet rabbit?
In addition to which material your rabbit litter is made from, there are other consideration as well. First of all, you want to choose a rabbit litter that is safe for your pet rabbit. You also will want one that can absorb moisture to keep your bunny comfortable. Along with absorption, you will want to choose one that offers good odor control too. To learn more about the differences between rabbit litters and how well they work, San Diego Rabbits wrote a great article to help you choose: "There are many more litter options now than there were just a few years ago. Each litter has a different absorption rate, weight, scent, and tracking capabilities. Because rabbits tend to nibble on everything and can easily inhale the dust, it is important to choose a non-toxic product. Over the years, we have come to know that there may be health risks associated with prolonged use of pine and cedar shavings - and neither is very absorbent as a litter - so we encourage you to try one of the many new litters designed for use with rabbits. We are happy to report that manufacturers are now providing us with many new, innovative products. Courtesy of BunnyBytes - thank you Kathy and Steve! - we were able to test several litter products on foster rabbits. Here is what we discovered. Aspen Supreme pellet litter: This pellet litter had a "woodsy" smell but it was not strong or offensive. The pellets are compostable and can be flushed in small quantities. Although heavy, we found this pellet litter to be very good at odor control and very absorbent, as well. The pellets are dark in color, so it took a little getting-used-to, but this litter fared very well. Kathy from BunnyBytes reminds us that because these pellets are also good at keeping odor down, so we need to remember to adhere to a regular cleaning schedule to keep bunny's box fresh and clean. Aspen Wood particles: This shaved-wood product looks similar to pine shavings, but it is made from Aspen wood. Although relatively absorbent, the wood particles stuck to most bunny butts so, in turn, the litter tracked all over the house. Not a great option - there's enough hay to clean up as it is! This litter is also recommended bedding for rats and guinea pigs. EcoFRESH: Made by Absorption Corporation, makers of CareFRESH, this litter looks and feels like clay, but it isn't. This litter is made from recycled paper. It is absorbent and virtually dust-free. One nice feature of this litter is that some rabbit droppings can be sifted out as you might do with cat litter. CareFRESH: Still one of the best paper-product litters available. Made from paper pulp and dust-free, this litter is non-toxic, very absorbent and flushable in small quantities. Along with hay and rabbit droppings, it makes great compost. Clay cat litter: Although inexpensive, clay litter can be dusty and may encourage digging in the litter box. There are also more absorbent litters on the market. Also, if bunny should ingest this litter, it could be fatal. DO NOT USE clumping cat litters with rabbits. This litter clumps when exposed to moisture, and it can't tell the difference between external and internal moisture. Rabbits tend to nibble on everything, and should they ingest clumping litter, they risk a potentially deadly intestinal blockage. Corn cob: Relatively absorbent, but very light and tends to get tracked and kicked out of the litter box easily. Cat Country: Made primarily from plant fibers, this pelleted litter is absorbent as well as compostable. Yesterday's News: This pelleted litter, made from recycled newspaper, is absorbent and can be flushed in small quantities. Feline Pine: Kiln-dried pine shavings, with no aromatic hydrocarbons. Liquid waste is absorbed by these pellets, which swell and become wet sawdust. Shredded paper: Layers of newspaper and shredded paper topped with hay can be used in the litter box, but we've found it may tempt rabbits to ingest large amounts of paper. Rabbits also love to get a grip on the paper and make a big mess. Economical and a good way to get second use out of the news, shredded paper may or may not work well, depending on your rabbit's habits. Selecting the right litter box and litter for your rabbit will depend on the products you can find, as well as your rabbit's activity level and special needs. Sometimes testing the different products is helpful, and we hope we've given you some "litter for thought!" To read the entire article, visit SanDiegoRabbits.org Pet Rabbits are generally filled with natural curiosity, and letting them get outside for some supervisied exercise is a great idea, Many bunny parents ask the following question "Can I Train a Rabbit to Walk on a Leash?" The surprising answer is "Yes" - many pet rabbits can be taught to walk on a leash, especially if you start their training at a young age.
The following is an excerpt from a very informative article on the Petfinder website. You can read the entire article by clicking the Petfinder link. " Avoid any harness of the “figure-eight” variety as they can cinch the rabbit’s neck and cause injury. You also want to avoid a simple collar for the same reason. Some rabbit harnesses come with stretchy leads, which sort of work, but a regular leash from the dog/cat section will be better if you have plans to train your pet and not just follow her around wherever she goes. When fitting the harness, make sure it is neither too loose (which can result in your rabbit escaping) or too snug (your bunny will be uncomfortable, won’t move and could even be injured). The first few times you attempt to harness your bunny, don’t expect a lot of help from her. Despite her antics, you are not hurting her or inflicting some terrible fate on her. However, if you want her to get better over time, then wearing the harness has to be a fun time for the bunny and worth the indignity of having to put the thing on. The Minnesota Companion Rabbit Society actually offers classes on leash-training your rabbit — you may find a rabbit group in your area that does the same. Leash training is the foundation for participating in rabbit agility. Most bunnies really love this activity, although like humans, there are a variety of degrees of aptitude. A few (maybe 5% or so) flatly refuse to have anything to do with it — including one of my pet rabbits. One loves it, the other almost failed the first level course out of pure stubbornness. Anytime your rabbit is leashed, there needs to be a human in attendance — don’t stake her out in the yard or leave her alone. Too many things can happen in that scenario — the rabbit can get tangled in the leash, chew through the leash, get snatched by a predator, etc. With or without a leash, rabbits can be trained to do all sorts of things. If you are familiar with the principles of training other animals, simply apply them to rabbits and watch them learn! I even heard recently about a rabbit that was trained to take medicine on command." The article was written by Joanna Campbell, President, Minnesota Companion Rabbit Society, Edina, MN. The entire article can be read here Petfinder. Rabbit Litter Training Guide - Part 2 (continued from yesterday)
5 - Make sure that you clean the rabbit litter pan each day to reduce odors and keep your rabbit hutch or rabbit cage clean and fresh! Rabbits are clean animals by nature and prefer to keep their homes clean. 6 - Purchase a Rabbit Litter Scoop, made to go in corners. Most cat litter scoops are too wide and will not allow you to scoop a corner litter pan. 7 - Always secure the corner litter pan to the rabbit hutch or rabbit cage as bunnies do like to grab these and move them around! Some corner litter pans come with clips for this purpose. If not, any clip that is larger enough to secure your litter pan should work, as long as their are no sharp edges that could potentially hurt you or your bunny. 8 - Avoid stressful times, such as holidays, to try and train your pet rabbit. Wait for a quieter time for the best success! Rabbit Litter Training Guide - Part 1
Many pet rabbits are able to learn to become litter pan trainined, similar to a cat. It is actually easier than you might expect. Try the following steps to start your pet rabbit off on a cleaner cage career!
When it comes to buying a Rabbit Hutch, how many rabbits is too many? The first rule is to avoid housing more than one rabbit in the same hutch or cage unless each has been spayed or neutered. It can be difficult to introduce a new bunny, and that process should always be monitored and attempted in areas that are neutral grounds for both, not in close quarters like inside a hutch!
It is generally a better idea to get a second rabbit hutch or rabbit cage and let the bunnies socialize during their play time, and during time that they are not inside their hutch or home. This way, they can begin to get used to each other on common ground. Remember, a rabbit's home is her special place to feel safe and secure. Why not make it as enjoyable as you can! How To Choose a Rabbit Hutch - Think Floor! If you plan to purchase a rabbit hutch or rabbit cage with a wire floor, which is quite common, then consider adding a solid area for your bunny to stand, walk and rest. Small sisal mats are sold that are made for this purpose, but you could also use a piece of wood (no sharp edges or splinters!) or better yet, a piece of cardboard that can be easily changed if it gets dirty. Adding a synthetic sheepskin pet bed or a bunny bed will add to your pet's comfort. These give your pet rabbit's feet a rest but are still washable for easy cleanup.
The wire floors are used above a dropping pan, or pull out tray that makes cleanup easier. You may want to put rabbit friendly bedding in the tray to help absorb moisture and reduce odors. This may be especially when keeping your rabbit hutch or rabbit home indoors. The best rabbit bedding, or rabbit litter as some call it, is material timportant hat is labeled for use with small animals. Packaged straw, Aspen Style (shredded) wood shavings or bedding made from wood pulp or recycled paper are the best choices for your bunny. Newer research indicates that you should not use Red Cedar Bedding, traditional pine shavings (such as used in horse stalls) or cat litter, due to health concerns! In addition to providing the right amount of room for a happy bunny, your rabbit hutch or rabbit home has several other main points to consider:
Rabbit safe toys are available, and if you don't have easy access, some toys that are safe for babies might be ok to use too. Use good common sense here! When pet parents decide on choosing the right Rabbit Hutch or Rabbit Home, a great place to begin is to determine the correct size. How large a rabbit hutch or home should you purchase?
As a rule of thumb, most experts say that you should get the largets rabbit hutch or rabbit cage that you can comfortably afford, and that will fit where you need to place it. We always suggest that pet parents plan on keeping their bunnies as indoor pets, and many of the rabbit hutches available today are both stylish and functional and can easliy be set up in a child's bedroom, spare room, family room or even your garage or basement. All of these choices will keep your bunny safer and happier and more engaged with her family members! Rabbits will live happier if they have adequate room in their rabbit hutch or rabbit cage. At the bare minimum, small breed rabbits that weigh less than 8 pounds should have a home at least 24 inches by 36 inches. Medium and larger breeds should have at least 30 inches by 36 inches in their living area. Some rabbit homes may offer more than one level, mking these a good choice for people short on available space. Bottom line - Alway provide a living area for your rabbit that is at least 4 times her length - but please remember that bigger is always better! |
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