There are many great commercially manufactured rabbit foods in the marketplace for your pet bunny. Oxbow and Kaytee both make high quality rabbit diets, and there are many others. In addition to feeding a quality rabbit diet and feeding the proper hay, you may also want to give your pet rabbit some healthy snacks as a treat, or to use when training your bunny. There are also some seeming good things to feed but in reality, they should be avoided. Some common foods really have very little nutrient value as well. Pet Care Tips provides the following about feeding healthy snacks for your pet rabbit: "As a responsible and caring rabbit owner you no doubt know that the bulk of your rabbit's diet should be fresh grass hay, such as timothy, meadow, prairie, brome or oat hay. There are also a few other items that you should add to your rabbit's diet for its good health. Alfalfa Hay Alfalfa hay is too high in calories, protein and calcium to be healthy as a major food source for adult rabbits, but you can give your adult rabbits small amounts of alfalfa hay occasionally as a treat. Young rabbits do need some alfalfa hay as a regular part of their diets because they need more calories and protein since they are growing and are probably also more active than their parents. Rabbit Pellets Rabbit pellets such as are sold at feed and pet stores are not suitable as the bulk of your rabbit's diet, but you should offer a handful or so of pellets every day. Fresh Vegetables Leafy greens are great for your rabbits, and you should offer them several types of leafy greens every day. Be sure to introduce new vegetables slowly and one at a time so that you can watch for any bad reactions such as soft stools." Read the full article: What Are Some Good and Bad Snacks for My Pet Rabbit? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch
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Most people seem to understand just how a dog would like to play. They may want to play tug of war, or fetch, or even just to chew on a toy. Cats love to roll around around and grab toys with their paws, or pounce on a toy being waved or dragged near them. But when you think about it, do you know how to play with your pet rabbit? What types of play will involve their natural tendencies? What would your bunny like to do for fun if she could do anything that she wanted (that was safe and within reason, of course). Would your pet rabbit play with toys, or fetch, or tug? My House Rabbit takes a look at how to play with your bunny: "Rabbits enjoy games that cater to their natural tendencies. A game of bunny bowling will appeal to their mischievous side, as they delight in knocking things over. Set up toy bowling pins and watch as your rabbit nose-bonks them all down. On a similar note, rabbits love to steal important papers (or apples you’re eating) out of your hand and run away with them, most likely binkying along the way. Admittedly, this is not exactly a game… or at least not one in which you’re a willing participant. But your bunny will certainly be amused. You can also play a game of “fetch” with your bunny… except you’re the retriever and your rabbit is the one doing the throwing. Some bunnies like picking up toys with their teeth and tossing them with a flick of their head. Toys for birds are great for this activity because they can easily grip them. You can also go a less expensive route and provide cardboard tubes from paper towel or toilet paper rolls. Stuff those tubes with hay to spike their interest further." Read the entire article: Playing With Your Pet Bunny Free Shipping On Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch If you would like to create a larger, more flexible living area for your pet rabbit than the sizes typically found with a rabbit hutch or rabbit cage, then consider using portable exercise pens made for puppies and dogs. These pens are wire panels that link together in different configurations to form an exercise area for a small dog or puppy, but are perfect for your bunny. This layout offers plenty of living space to run, play, hop, eat, rest and to be a bunny! The Rabbit Haven provides the following: "Portable wire exercise pens are the most versatile, the easiest to clean, and the best way to give your rabbit what they need. Space, toys and a clean environment of their own while living inside with you! For those who want a quick housing solution without spending a lot of time and money, the wire pen arrangement (X-pens also called puppy corrals) gives you the best housing for your money and helps the rabbit feel at home in their own space. Exercise pens allow for the bunny to see what is going on around them. This gives a feeling of knowing what's happening and of being included in the household activities. Exercise pens are made up of eight heavy-gauge wire "panels", all connected together, so that they can be stretched out and shaped into a square, rectangle, octagon, or whatever shape you want. Each panel is 24" wide. The total space when panels are made into a square is 4' x 4', or 16 square feet (for a bonded pair, we recommend two pens and a space not less than 4' x 6'). When purchasing the pens, you can choose from these heights: 24", 30", 36", 42". We recommend a 30" height, 36" for jumpers. One of the eight panels acts as a swinging door when opened, and the pen is secured shut with large dog leash clips that come with the panels. Note: the wire slats of the pen must be close enough together so that a tiny rabbit cannot walk through! When not in use, the panels fold up like an accordion and can be easily stored in a closet. They can also be easily transported by car to another location. For a larger space, many people choose a corner of a room, using the two corner walls as walls of the pen. This makes an even bigger space for the rabbit, since you have all eight panels to complete just two sides of the pen." Read the full article: Sweet Home for Bunny: X-Pens and Other Housing Options Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Although not absolutely necessary, for most, it is preferable to train your pet rabbit to use a litterbox. It will make clean ups much easier, which in turn may help keep down the odors. It is also less expensive to change the litter in the box more often and the remaining litter will probably last a bit longer. Your bunny's home will definitely be more agreeable to be close to, and your pet rabbit will likely "take care of business" in the area of the litter pan. Once litter trained, you will be happy that and your bunny took the time to train! In addition to the actual training, you will need to decide on a type of rabbit litter to use. The House Rabbit Society suggests the following about rabbit litters: "What types of litter should I use? It depends on what’s available in your area and what your rabbit’s habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter: most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes rabbits will always nibble some of the litter rabbit urine has a very strong odor. House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh (Natural only), Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday’s News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box." Read the entire article: Litter Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Pet rabbits make wonderful additions to your family, as long as you understand that bunnies are different as pets than dogs or cats. There is a right way and a wrong way to interact with a pet rabbit, and keep in mind that they are very social animals that really want to spend time with their pet parents and family. Small children are not the best to mix with pet rabbits, and most pet rabbits do not like to be scooped up, cuddled or held. Instinctively, rabbits are prey animals so this behavior is just a natural reaction to escape. The best way to play and interact with your pet rabbit is explained by Indianahrs.org: "It’s important to remember that rabbits are prey animals. Prey animals interact with their environment very differently than predators like cats and dogs. In general, rabbits do not like to be picked up. The act of bending over them and grabbing them by their ribs to pick them up is very similar to being picked up by a hawk – scary!! The best way to interact with your rabbit is on the floor. Sit in the room while bunny is out to play and she will soon come investigate you. She will like to be petted sitting next to you, but not necessarily while being carried in your arms! If you choose a cage or pen with a sideopening door and put it on the floor or provide a ramp to a taller cage, you can let bunny in and out for playtime without ever picking her up! If you are going to pick up your rabbit, make sure you do it correctly. The best way is to place one hand under her rib cage and the other under her bottom, scooping her back legs so she can’t kick. This method will protect her fragile backbone while protecting you from those strong kicking back legs and sharp nails. It is also important to wear an appropriate shirt when handling a rabbit to avoid being scratched by nails as bunny tries to get away! Or just encourage or herd bunny into a pet carrier or box and move him that way. Keep in mind your rabbit will likely be easier to interact with and handle once spayed or neutered. Spaying and neutering reduces hormone-driven behaviors like lunging, mounting, spraying, and boxing. Spaying also protects female bunnies from uterine cancer, which can be quite common in older unspayed rabbits." Read the entire article: What Is It Like to Have a Pet Rabbit? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Traditionally, many people think of a dog or cat as the family pet, but rabbits make great family pets too. Like any other pet, it is important to understand the commitment of time and money necessary to care properly for a new pet bunny. There are many great groups where you can adopt a pet rabbit, and we have a link to an adoption finder on our website. Once yu decide that adopting a pet rabbit is a good choice for your family, you need to learn more about rabbits as family pets. Love That Pet offers the following on rabbit care" "In addition to the many coat patterns, there are also several sizes to choose from. For example, dwarf lops and mini lops are very popular, and they are small: The mini doesn’t get bigger than 1.6kg (3.5lb), and the dwarf only gets to 2.5kg (5lb). These are the rabbits whose ears are very long and droop down to the ground. Many people, when they think of pet rabbits, are thinking of lops. By contrast, the Flemish giant is well-named. Often topping 6kg (14lbs), this rabbit is larger than most pet cats and many kinds of dog (up to and including some spaniels). Unlike the lops, Flemish giants have ears that stand upright. A little bigger than a dwarf lop and much smaller than a Flemish giant, the “rex” weighs in at approximately 3kg (6.5lb) and is noted for its curly fur. All breeds are suitable as pets, but young children must always be supervised when they are visiting with Bunny Buddy. It is very easy to injure a rabbit by handling her awkwardly, and it is even easier to scare her. It’s rough being at the bottom of the food chain! If she is scared or hurt, she will bite or scratch to defend herself." Read the entire article: Rabbit Care Guide Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit./ly/BuyRabbitHutch Maybe the first question to answer is - what is a Rabbitat? A Rabbitat is a sort of "Rabbit Playground", sufficiant to provide for the basic outdoor instincts of a pet rabbit, but in a structured and safe manner. Your Rabitat should provide your bunny with safe outdoor space to dig, chew, tunnel, expolore and graze, to name a few activities. The concept remains that a pet rabbit should still live indoors, but allowing her to have some outdoor playtime in your Rabbitat will give her a chance to live like a - rabbit! PetFinder offers the following on building a Rabbitat" "There’s no such thing as a blueprint for the perfect rabbitat, but there are a few features for the do-it-yourselfer to consider. Dirt – Domestic rabbits are descended from European rabbits, who live in groups in warrens, an underground network of interconnecting burrows and tunnels that they dig in the earth. Diggable dirt or ordinary garden soil should be high on the list of things you provide for your house rabbits’ happiness. Fresh-cut greens – Greens should not be a major component of your rabbit’s diet, but access to a variety of fresh foliage has both dietary and emotional benefits for rabbits. The objective here is to offer cut greens and flowers in a natural upright manner so that rabbits can stand up and stretch to reach the succulent leaves on the tops of the branches. Security – Your rabbitat must confine your rabbits while also providing shelter from the weather and protection from predators and the unwelcome attention of other animals and possibly unkind children. As prey animals, rabbits instinctively avoid open spaces where they feel unprotected, so locate your rabbitat in a shady corner of your yard, out of view of busy streets, neighbors’ dogs and overhanging tree branches where cats or birds of prey may hover. Even if secure inside an enclosure, a rabbit can die of fright if a predator is able to menace her at close range." Read the entire article: Designing a Rabbit Playground Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Welcome to the wonderful world of having a pet rabbit! Pet bunnies make great and loving pets, but it is important to help train them like you would other pets, so they know what is acceptable behavior inside your home. When it comes to chewing and digging, both of which are natural bunny behaviors, it is important that they are trained for two main reasons. The first one is danger. If a pet rabbit chewed on an electrical cord, the result could be very bad. The second reason is damage. Naturally, you do not want your pet rabbit to damage carpeting, furniture, or anything else in your home! The House Rabbit Society offers the following: "During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to her home and let her (or them) come out when she chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don’t interfere with her if she wants to explore. And watch her carefully throughout the time she is out of her cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren’t simply challenging the rabbit to break through). If possible, provide something with a similar (or better) taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn’t move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn’t ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs. The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small “corner” or “tunnel” with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end-opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so her body runs the length of the box (providing she is large enough that her body doesn’t fit cross- wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging box (see the litter faq). Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures that they are, quickly learn." Read the entire article here: Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com To fully enjoy the relationship with your pet rabbit, it is best to keep your bunny indoors and to intereact on a daily basis. The time you spend playing, petting and grooming your bunny will pay off in a more pleasurable relationship for all. If you have the space to have a rabbit hutch indoors, then that will give your bunny plenty of personal space. If not, then choosing a rabbit cage, which I prefer to call a rabbit home, is a great alternative. You can also use a puppy training crate, providing it has a design that is both safe and workable for your pet rabbit. To choose the right rabbit home (cage), wikiHow offers the following suggestions: "Get an indoor rabbit cage. Indoor rabbit cages can often be restrictive for your rabbit. Make sure you have enough space in the cage for your rabbit. You should also be able to leave the cage open so he can get plenty of exercise. Give your rabbit enough space in his cage. There needs to be enough room for him to move around in the cage and lie down. The minimum size is three hops long and two hops wide. Of course, the bigger the cage, the better it will be for your rabbit. Make sure your rabbit has space for food, water, a litter box, and toys. He will need things to do and to eat and drink in his cage. Try a cage with a front door for your rabbit. Purchase a cage that opens either from the inside and/or outside. Cages with doors that open out enable your rabbit to come and go when he wants, whereas doors that only push in mean you have to get the rabbit out of the cage yourself. Make sure your cage has protection for the rabbit’s feet. Cage flooring can injure the rabbit’s feet, so provide soft material that can cover the cage flooring, such as an old blanket or towel." Read the rest of their informative rabbit care article: How To Choose A Rabbit Cage Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com The answer here, is a cautious "Yes". Some pets will just not mix well and good common sense needs to be used in these cases for the safety and wellness of all pets and people involved. There are some situations where pet rabbits can be introduced and get along with other pets in the household, such as other rabbits, cats, guinea pigs and even dogs. You must take the time to understand how the bonding process works, and take the time to introduce your pets slowly and carefully. The goal is a happy household without unnessary stress and a safe environment for all involved!
To begin the bonding process, Pet Care Tips.net offers the following: "The first thing you will need to do is find a companion for your rabbit. Male with female pairs seem to work the best for compatibility but female to female can also work. Male rabbits seldom get along with other male rabbits unless started as littermates. All rabbits should be spayed or neutered beforeintroductions begin. Start the bonding process before the rabbits are allowed to interact. Place the rabbits in separate cages in sight of each other. Let them get used to the presence of another rabbit for several days before actually letting them meet. Rabbit introductions should be done in a neutral territory. This is a place the existing rabbit has never entered. The room should be large enough for the rabbits to move around yet small enough so the rabbits can interact. Newly introduced rabbits may go beyond hand shaking; they may fight. You should have a water spray bottle and towels handy to break up any fighting. Do not break up fighting with your bare hands, as the rabbit may not differentiate whom he is attacking. Discontinue bonding session before bites result in injury. Rabbits may chase and show dominance behavior (mounting) during the introductions. These are normal activities to determine which rabbit will be the leader." Read the entire bonding process here: How to Get Rabbits to Get Along with Other Rabbits & Other Pets Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com |
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