Your home can be an incredibly interesting and fun place for your bunny to play and explore. It can also be very dangerous! Using a little bit of common sense and a good plan, your can make your home a good bit safer for your pet bunny. The House Rabbit Society offers the following advice for rabbit proofing your home: "What does rabbit proofing involve? Rabbit Proofing one’s home involves three things: 1) Preventing destruction of your property; 2) Protecting your companion rabbit(s) from harm; and 3) Providing safe and fun chewing alternatives for your rabbit. Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow......" Read the entire article here: Rabbit Proofing Your Home Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch
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Although not absolutely necessary, for most, it is preferable to train your pet rabbit to use a litterbox. It will make clean ups much easier, which in turn may help keep down the odors. It is also less expensive to change the litter in the box more often and the remaining litter will probably last a bit longer. Your bunny's home will definitely be more agreeable to be close to, and your pet rabbit will likely "take care of business" in the area of the litter pan. Once litter trained, you will be happy that and your bunny took the time to train! In addition to the actual training, you will need to decide on a type of rabbit litter to use. The House Rabbit Society suggests the following about rabbit litters: "What types of litter should I use? It depends on what’s available in your area and what your rabbit’s habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter: most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes rabbits will always nibble some of the litter rabbit urine has a very strong odor. House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh (Natural only), Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday’s News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box." Read the entire article: Litter Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch The answer here, is a cautious "Yes". Some pets will just not mix well and good common sense needs to be used in these cases for the safety and wellness of all pets and people involved. There are some situations where pet rabbits can be introduced and get along with other pets in the household, such as other rabbits, cats, guinea pigs and even dogs. You must take the time to understand how the bonding process works, and take the time to introduce your pets slowly and carefully. The goal is a happy household without unnessary stress and a safe environment for all involved! To begin the bonding process, Pet Care Tips.net offers the following: "The first thing you will need to do is find a companion for your rabbit. Male with female pairs seem to work the best for compatibility but female to female can also work. Male rabbits seldom get along with other male rabbits unless started as littermates. All rabbits should be spayed or neutered beforeintroductions begin. Start the bonding process before the rabbits are allowed to interact. Place the rabbits in separate cages in sight of each other. Let them get used to the presence of another rabbit for several days before actually letting them meet. Rabbit introductions should be done in a neutral territory. This is a place the existing rabbit has never entered. The room should be large enough for the rabbits to move around yet small enough so the rabbits can interact. Newly introduced rabbits may go beyond hand shaking; they may fight. You should have a water spray bottle and towels handy to break up any fighting. Do not break up fighting with your bare hands, as the rabbit may not differentiate whom he is attacking. Discontinue bonding session before bites result in injury. Rabbits may chase and show dominance behavior (mounting) during the introductions. These are normal activities to determine which rabbit will be the leader." Read the entire bonding process here: How to Get Rabbits to Get Along with Other Rabbits & Other Pets Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com There are many great commercially manufactured rabbit foods in the marketplace for your pet bunny. Oxbow and Kaytee both make high quality rabbit diets, and there are many others. In addition to feeding a quality rabbit diet and feeding the proper hay, you may also want to give your pet rabbit some healthy snacks as a treat, or to use when training your bunny. There are also some seeming good things to feed but in reality, they should be avoided. Some common foods really have very little nutrient value as well. Pet Care Tips provides the following about feeding healthy snacks for your pet rabbit: "As a responsible and caring rabbit owner you no doubt know that the bulk of your rabbit's diet should be fresh grass hay, such as timothy, meadow, prairie, brome or oat hay. There are also a few other items that you should add to your rabbit's diet for its good health. Alfalfa Hay Alfalfa hay is too high in calories, protein and calcium to be healthy as a major food source for adult rabbits, but you can give your adult rabbits small amounts of alfalfa hay occasionally as a treat. Young rabbits do need some alfalfa hay as a regular part of their diets because they need more calories and protein since they are growing and are probably also more active than their parents. Rabbit Pellets Rabbit pellets such as are sold at feed and pet stores are not suitable as the bulk of your rabbit's diet, but you should offer a handful or so of pellets every day. Fresh Vegetables Leafy greens are great for your rabbits, and you should offer them several types of leafy greens every day. Be sure to introduce new vegetables slowly and one at a time so that you can watch for any bad reactions such as soft stools." Read the full article: What Are Some Good and Bad Snacks for My Pet Rabbit? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Have you ever thought about how hard it would be for us to communicate if we could not use words? The amazing way that pets communicate with other animals as well as their pet parents is certainly worth understanding. Pet rabbits cannot use words but they do indeed communicate! This communication is largely associated with both proper training and developing a higher level of trust. Your pet bunny may communicate that she does not want to be picked up, but once a higher level of trust is achieved, she may no longer find that to be a problem to communicate. The House Rabbit Society says the following about pet rabbit communication: "Rabbits need to communicate with their companion (human)s, but of course, their communication is without words. One obvious example of such communication is struggling when they are picked up. This is simply (and obviously) saying “I don’t like being picked up! Put me down! PLEASE put me down! I don’t feel safe when you take control of my body this way!” There are few instances where it is appropriate for companion (human)s to force their will on a companion of another species in this way. Obviously, if a rabbit’s teeth must be examined or clipped because of malocclusion, it is necessary to hold her against her will. But it is inexcusable for companions of one species to force their wills on those of another just to satisfy their own desires. If you want a rabbit who enjoys jumping on your lap and being stroked, teach him to trust you, by never grabbing or holding him against his will when he comes to you. Use treats, nose-to-nose-touching, chin-rubbing (your chin on the rabbit’s face), rubbing around the ears, etc.–whatever he enjoys–to encourage his pleasure in being with you. And if he happens not to enjoy such activities, so be it. Respect and enjoy him for who he is. After all, you want the same for yourself. A rabbit who enjoys sitting on your lap and being stroked may nip you sharply if you get distracted enough to stop stroking her. She isn’t trying to hurt you, just to remind you that she expects you to get back to the job at hand. When a rabbit nips in an effort to communicate appropriately such as in this case (inappropriate nipping will be discussed later), he probably doesn’t realize how painful it is nor how severe the resulting bruise may be. SCREECH one high, loud, sudden, and short screech to let the rabbit know that he really hurt you. The squeal should be loud, sudden, and high enough to startle the rabbit slightly. The next time he nips (appropriately–i.e., for the purpose of communicating), you will be surprised at how much gentler it will be. Continue to squeal when nipped, however, until the nip is gentle enough to cause no pain or bruising. (Note: use ice on the bruise quickly.)" Read the entire article: Rabbit.org Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Although not absolutely necessary, for most, it is preferable to train your pet rabbit to use a litterbox. It will make clean ups much easier, which in turn may help keep down the odors. It is also less expensive to change the litter in the box more often and the remaining litter will probably last a bit longer. Your bunny's home will definitely be more agreeable to be close to, and your pet rabbit will likely "take care of business" in the area of the litter pan. Once litter trained, you will be happy that and your bunny took the time to train! In addition to the actual training, you will need to decide on a type of rabbit litter to use. The House Rabbit Society suggests the following about rabbit litters: "What types of litter should I use? It depends on what’s available in your area and what your rabbit’s habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter: most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes rabbits will always nibble some of the litter rabbit urine has a very strong odor. House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh (Natural only), Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday’s News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box." Read the entire article: Litter Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com bit.ly/BuyRabbitHutch Welcome to the wonderful world of having a pet rabbit! Pet bunnies make great and loving pets, but it is important to help train them like you would other pets, so they know what is acceptable behavior inside your home. When it comes to chewing and digging, both of which are natural bunny behaviors, it is important that they are trained for two main reasons. The first one is danger. If a pet rabbit chewed on an electrical cord, the result could be very bad. The second reason is damage. Naturally, you do not want your pet rabbit to damage carpeting, furniture, or anything else in your home! The House Rabbit Society offers the following: "During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to her home and let her (or them) come out when she chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don’t interfere with her if she wants to explore. And watch her carefully throughout the time she is out of her cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren’t simply challenging the rabbit to break through). If possible, provide something with a similar (or better) taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn’t move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn’t ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs. The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small “corner” or “tunnel” with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end-opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so her body runs the length of the box (providing she is large enough that her body doesn’t fit cross- wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging box (see the litter faq). Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures that they are, quickly learn." Read the entire article here: Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com The answer here, is a cautious "Yes". Some pets will just not mix well and good common sense needs to be used in these cases for the safety and wellness of all pets and people involved. There are some situations where pet rabbits can be introduced and get along with other pets in the household, such as other rabbits, cats, guinea pigs and even dogs. You must take the time to understand how the bonding process works, and take the time to introduce your pets slowly and carefully. The goal is a happy household without unnessary stress and a safe environment for all involved!
To begin the bonding process, Pet Care Tips.net offers the following: "The first thing you will need to do is find a companion for your rabbit. Male with female pairs seem to work the best for compatibility but female to female can also work. Male rabbits seldom get along with other male rabbits unless started as littermates. All rabbits should be spayed or neutered beforeintroductions begin. Start the bonding process before the rabbits are allowed to interact. Place the rabbits in separate cages in sight of each other. Let them get used to the presence of another rabbit for several days before actually letting them meet. Rabbit introductions should be done in a neutral territory. This is a place the existing rabbit has never entered. The room should be large enough for the rabbits to move around yet small enough so the rabbits can interact. Newly introduced rabbits may go beyond hand shaking; they may fight. You should have a water spray bottle and towels handy to break up any fighting. Do not break up fighting with your bare hands, as the rabbit may not differentiate whom he is attacking. Discontinue bonding session before bites result in injury. Rabbits may chase and show dominance behavior (mounting) during the introductions. These are normal activities to determine which rabbit will be the leader." Read the entire bonding process here: How to Get Rabbits to Get Along with Other Rabbits & Other Pets Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Having a pet rabbit can be a wonderful experience for you, your family and your bunny. When you bring a pet rabbit into your home, it is important to make sure that as many potential hazards are removed, just like you would with a new dog, cat or baby. Buunies chew, bunnies hop and bunnies like to play - all these make for a fun personality but can also get them into trouble. By simply taking the time to identify and address any potential dangers in your home, your pet rabbit will live safer and your family will reduce their stress levels!
One of the biggest dangers in your home are electric cords. the House Rabbit Society offers some great advice on rabbit-proofing: "Why is rabbit proofing your home so important? Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow. So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach? Spiral cable wrap Radio Shack sells something called “spiral cable wrap”. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm for most, but not every bunny. (Some still manage to chew through it.) This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, video game, extension, lamp and other cords. I keep my portable computer cord wrapped this way, and it’s not too bulky. Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with “swamp coolers”) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available. Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well. Of course, Wires can be run behind or above furniture and carpets, but do NOT run your wires under carpets, as this can create a serious fire risk. How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants? Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal." Learn about the additional risks at home for your bunny and how to handle them at What Does Rabbit Proofing Involve? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Before deciding to adopt any pet rabbit, please make sure that you have a plan to let your bunny have ample, safe and supervisied time to exercise, outside her rabbit hutch or rabbit home. It is healthy for your pet rabbit to get time to run and hop, and basically - be a rabbit!
It is also importatnt that you provide your pet rabbit with a rabbit hutch or rabbit home that provides for some room to hop around inside. We always recommend that you choose a rabbit hutch or home that is as large as you can afford, and that will fit in the area that you are going to keep it. But remember that when it comes to rabbit housing, bigger is better. The Petfinder.com website suggests the following about exercise: "Many people think that rabbits don’t require much room for housing or exercise. Not so! Rabbits have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. They need plenty of out-of-cage exercise time, as well as a cage that allows them to move freely. The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit is 2’ x 2’ x 4’. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they can ulcerate a rabbit’s feet. If you have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of wood or corrugated cardboard. Better yet, buy a cage with a floor. Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors even for a few minutes! Cats, dogs and even predatory birds can easily get around fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your rabbit is likely to chew. Recommended exercise time for indoor rabbits is several hours per day" Learn more about pet rabbit care here Housing and Exercise Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com |
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