As people become increasingly aware of how important a healthy diet is for us, it is logical that many pet parents are looking for more fruits and vegetable options to give to their pets. Pet rabbits are no different. Apples are certainly a tasty, yet healthy snack (or part of a meal) for us, so the question comes up - Can my pet rabbit eat apples?
A pet rabbit's main diet should consist of grassy hay, but Rabbit .org suggests the following guidelines for feeding apples or other fruits to your pet bunny: "Fruits can also be fed in small amounts. In the wild these would be special high calorie foods obtained only at certain times of the year. Fruits make great training treats! You also might choose to hand-feed the fruit portion of the diet as part of developing a close bond with your bunny and also to make sure he has an appetite every day. It is a great way to see if your bunny is feeling good when you observe if he takes his fruit treat every morning! If he doesn’t want to eat his treat, it is time to call your veterinarian. Remember that dried fruits are about 3 times as concentrated as the fresh variety so feed less of those. Rabbits, like many animals naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods such as those high in sugar or starch. This is a protective device from the wild days when they could never be sure when or if they would get the next meal. When a plant would produce fruit, it is for a limited time and all the animals in the area would want to gobble these gems up quickly! This means that rabbits cannot limit themselves when given sugary or starchy foods if left to their own devices! Overfeeding fruits can result in a weight gain or GI upset so it is up to you to feed these foods in limited amounts. An approximate amount of fruit to feed your rabbit is a teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight daily in one feeding or divided into multiple feedings. IMPORTANT: Before introducing any fresh foods to a rabbit it is best if he has been eating grass hay for a minimum of 2 weeks. The grass hay will help to get his GI tract motility and flora in good working order so that he will be able to accept new foods more easily. When introducing new fresh foods to any rabbit’s diet it is best to go slowly to allow the gastrointestinal tract and all its important microorganisms to adjust. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. It is rare for a rabbit that has been on a hay diet first, to have any problems using this method, but if you note softer stools that persist over a couple of days, then you might want to remove that food from your bunny’s diet. Keep a list as you go of the foods that your rabbit has successfully eaten; you will then have a handy shopping list when you go to the store!" The entire article can be read at Suggested Vegetables and Fruits for a Rabbit Diet Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies from BuyRabbitHutch.com
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Once a person decides to become a pet parent, and commits to provide a loving, supportive and caring home for an animal in need, and they further understand the time and money commitment involved, then the next choice is to decide on what type of pet to adopt. By all means, dogs and cats living in shelters should certainly be considered and the simple act of animal adoption makes you a person of great character. But in addition to dogs and cats, rabbits should certainly be considered too.
Then comes the question of the hour - Do Rabbits Make Good Pets? To help answer this question, Rabbit .org offers the following: "People who haven’t lived with rabbits often ask those who do if rabbits make “good pets,” and if so, if they are more like dogs or cats. Most house rabbit people don’t quite know how to respond to these questions, not only because we have transcended such mundane matters in our own relationships with rabbits, but also because the chauvinistic nature of the questions themselves makes us feel uncomfortable. It seems that for most people, an animal is perceived as a “good pet” if she shows affection in ways human beings can understand without much effort (e.g., lapsitting or coming when called), if she participates in games humans easily comprehend (“catch,” “fetch,” or “chase the string”), or if she makes an obvious effort to communicate vocally (barking to be let in or out, mewing for supper). People usually seem fairly sure these qualities cannot be expected in a rabbit, and hence, that rabbits would not make “good pets.” Alternatively, some people expect such traits in all rabbits and may be disappointed in one who is unwilling or unable to comply with their expectations. The second question, “Are rabbits more like cats or dogs?” is a natural to follow the first. My usual response is, “Are people more like fish or cockatoos?” After all, rabbits are, first and foremost, like rabbits, and the only way to find out what they are like is to live with one or more. You’ll find that rabbits share a few characteristics with dogs, a few with cats, and a few with humans. They probably even share a few with fish and cockatoos. But mostly they’re like rabbits, and learning what rabbits are like is part of the joy of living with them. The fact that this question, like the “good pets” one, is asked at all makes clear the human position that in order to be considered of value in our world, other species must conform to our notions of what is “good.” The entire article is available at What Are Rabbits Really Like? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Having a pet rabbit can be a wonderful experience for you, your family and your bunny. When you bring a pet rabbit into your home, it is important to make sure that as many potential hazards are removed, just like you would with a new dog, cat or baby. Buunies chew, bunnies hop and bunnies like to play - all these make for a fun personality but can also get them into trouble. By simply taking the time to identify and address any potential dangers in your home, your pet rabbit will live safer and your family will reduce their stress levels!
One of the biggest dangers in your home are electric cords. the House Rabbit Society offers some great advice on rabbit-proofing: "Why is rabbit proofing your home so important? Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow. So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach? Spiral cable wrap Radio Shack sells something called “spiral cable wrap”. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm for most, but not every bunny. (Some still manage to chew through it.) This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, video game, extension, lamp and other cords. I keep my portable computer cord wrapped this way, and it’s not too bulky. Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with “swamp coolers”) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available. Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well. Of course, Wires can be run behind or above furniture and carpets, but do NOT run your wires under carpets, as this can create a serious fire risk. How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants? Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal." Learn about the additional risks at home for your bunny and how to handle them at What Does Rabbit Proofing Involve? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Your pet rabbit's teeth are directly related to your rabbit's health. Her teeth continue to grow all the time, and a good bunny pet parent should keep an eye on her teeth, and take steps to help them wear down naturally. It helps to have a bit of insight about a rabbit's teeth, as well as the steps that you can take to make sure your pet rabbit stays healthy!
Did you know that providing clean grassy hay is one thing that you can do to help your bunny's teeth? See what else you should know about your pet rabbit's teeth from the PetCareTips.net site: "If you have pet rabbits, you probably know that a good rabbit keeper must always be concerned with their teeth because the condition of their teeth so much affects their health. Here are some basic facts about rabbit teeth. * Adult rabbits have twenty-eight teeth. There are two pairs of incisors in the top front of their mouths, with the second pair being much smaller and behind the large front teeth. There is also a pair of incisors at the front of the lower jaw. * Rabbits don't have canine teeth, but they do have premolars and molars, called "cheek teeth". (Useful note: There is a good-sized space between the incisors and the cheek teeth that helps when you need to give the rabbit food or medicine by syringe.) * Unlike our own teeth, rabbit teeth have no enamel and wear down quickly. The teeth of rabbits are also "open-rooted," meaning that they never stop growing throughout the rabbit's life. Happily, the nerves in rabbit teeth stop just below the gum line, so the constant wearing doesn't cause the rabbit any pain. * Rabbits have a strong instinct to gnaw, and domestic rabbits should always be supplied with plenty of clean grass hay as well as nontoxic wood branches or toys for gnawing, in order to prevent overgrowth of the incisors." The entire article is available at Everything You Should Know About Pet Rabbit's Teeth Free Shipping on Pet Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Before deciding to adopt any pet rabbit, please make sure that you have a plan to let your bunny have ample, safe and supervisied time to exercise, outside her rabbit hutch or rabbit home. It is healthy for your pet rabbit to get time to run and hop, and basically - be a rabbit!
It is also importatnt that you provide your pet rabbit with a rabbit hutch or rabbit home that provides for some room to hop around inside. We always recommend that you choose a rabbit hutch or home that is as large as you can afford, and that will fit in the area that you are going to keep it. But remember that when it comes to rabbit housing, bigger is better. The Petfinder.com website suggests the following about exercise: "Many people think that rabbits don’t require much room for housing or exercise. Not so! Rabbits have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. They need plenty of out-of-cage exercise time, as well as a cage that allows them to move freely. The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit is 2’ x 2’ x 4’. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they can ulcerate a rabbit’s feet. If you have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of wood or corrugated cardboard. Better yet, buy a cage with a floor. Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors even for a few minutes! Cats, dogs and even predatory birds can easily get around fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your rabbit is likely to chew. Recommended exercise time for indoor rabbits is several hours per day" Learn more about pet rabbit care here Housing and Exercise Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Part of the enjoyment that most pet parents get from their pets is the joy of sharing "me time". This often involves patting, grooming and holding, especially with a pet rabbit. Pet rabbits are actually very fragile and to avoid injury to both bunny and bunny-picker-upper, it is important to learn the correct way to lift up your pet rabbit. The same is true for both holding and carrying your bunny. Think of these steps as a training process as well, which should help your pet rabbit to understand that everything is ok and there is no danger when you pick her up. Lastly, please realize that it generally is never a good idea for a small child to try to lift, hold or carry a bunny. It is better to have your child sit on the floor and possibly let the bunny sit on the child's lap or next to him or her, supervised, to enjoy some playful bonding time.
Here are some tips on how to lift a pet rabbit from the House Rabbit Society: "Now that bunny is out, it's time to lift him. The following are directions (for right- handed people) if you are uncertain, or having trouble lifting your medium-to-large-sized rabbit. Start with the rabbit on the floor, say, in the bathroom. Approach him slowly and pet him, leaving your hand on his head to discourage escape. Rabbits feel uneasy, and are most likely to struggle, when they are suspended in the air. So be prepared before you lift. Visualize how you want to hold the rabbit once you have lifted him. For example: the rabbit right side up, nose pointed to the left, left side along your midriff, supported by your right arm. Next, slide the rabbit around while he is still on the ground, until he matches this position, i.e. sideways and pointed left. Is he thinking of leaving? Keep your hand on his head, or gently grasp his shoulders. Do not lift by the scruff. If he runs, don't grab him. Follow him, using babytalk to lighten the moment. Wait until he stops, and start again. Kneel, and keeping your left hand on his head, bend your torso close to him. Place your right arm along his right side, and put your right hand under his chest. If he accepts this, take your left hand from his head and use it to support his groin. Otherwise, lift using your hand to support the chest, and your arm to support the side and hindquarters. Scoop him to you and hold him firmly there. The key to this method is to position the rabbit within a few inches of you. That way you will shorten the suspended-in-air stage." The full article is available here, which includes photos An Uplifting Experience Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Choosing the right hay for your pet rabbit is important, not only so she gets the proper nutrition, but also to keep her healthy. There are several types of hay that are commercially available, some that are even organically grown. Hay is also important for your bunny's dental health as well. It is also important to enourage your pet rabbit to eat hay, as not all rabbits will readily do so.
The following steps to make sure your pet rabbit is eating enough hay is from TheRabbitHouse.com "Despite the importance of hay, many rabbits are reluctant to eat it. This often stems from the availability of tasty but less healthy food, which can develop bad eating habits in young rabbits that can be difficult to change in later life. Not eating hay is a major factor in dental disease and illnesses relating to the gut, so putting in some hard work to encourage your rabbit to eat more has real health benefits. Here are some tips to encourage your rabbit to eat more hay:
Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com When you think about adopting a pet rabbit to add to your family, it is natural to think about the period of adjustment as your new bunny friend gets used to her new surroundings. How long does this take? How well do pet rabbits adjust? What does it take to help your new pet rabbit fit in and become a regular member of your family? All these are normal concerns, and the answer to most is that - thankfully, pet rabbits do adjust fairly easily and fairly well to a new loving home.
It does help considerably to know what to expect, and what preparations to make. It will also be helpful to create the best environment at your home ahead of time so that when your bunny comes home, the transition will be a short and easy one. The Petfinder.com website offers the following advice: "Rabbits as Roommates When you first bring your rabbit home, he is likely to be somewhat timid in his new surroundings. But given time and the freedom to explore, he will quickly make himself at home. As prey animals, rabbits steer clear of open spaces where they feel exposed, preferring to hug the wall and hide under furniture. A rabbit’s typical pattern of exploration is to start from an area of perceived safety and to venture out a few feet at a time, increasing his range with each successive trip. Some spirited thumping is not unusual as the rabbit encounters new aspects of his environment. Territory is claimed and marked in several different ways—some of which can be disconcerting to new owners. Mature, unneutered males spray urine, and both males and females (even those who are reliably litterbox-trained) may leave what many owners tactfully refer to as “calling cards”—fecal pellets containing anal gland secretions that relay information to other rabbits and mark territory boundaries. They may also mark their territory by rubbing objects firmly and repeatedly with their chins, releasing a substance (imperceptible to humans) from a scent gland under the chin. Some rabbits consider human beings their own personal property, and many an unsuspecting owner has been liberally “marked” in more ways than one. Most rabbits adapt remarkably quickly to the hustle, bustle and noise of a normal household, particularly if their cage or pen is placed in a high-activity area, such as a family room. This gives the rabbit a safe place from which to see, hear and smell all that is going on. Housing a rabbit in a child’s room or an extra bedroom, where there are sporadic bursts of activity, may actually delay the rabbit’s adjustment to normal family life. Rabbits can also get along quite well with most domestic cats and many breeds of dogs. Even cats and dogs who chase small animals outdoors tend to accept indoor rabbits as co-equal family members and usually do not harass them if the owner is present. Introductions must be done carefully, and supervision of interactions is always a good idea." You can read the full article here Petfinder.com Rabbits as Roommates Free Shipping on all Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Pet rabbits benefit greatly from both the time outside their rabbit hutch or rabbit home for exercise, as well as the social time your pet bunny gets to interact with you and your family. It is usually a good idea to spend some of this time training your pet rabbit, and having her come to you when you call her name can be a helpful thing for her to learn!
Like training any other pet, it is important to be consistant when you train your pet rabbit, give her plenty of time to learn and reward her for being successful! Once she learns how to come to you when you call, impress your family and friends and have your bunny hop back to her cage when you call her. That one is always a crowd pleaser! The Pets on Mom.me website details the following steps to help train your pet rabbit to come to you: "Getting Down to Her Level Avoid training your rabbit outdoors, where it's easy for her to run away. Instead, train her in a secure area of your home to prevent escape, such as inside the garage, basement or other secure room. After you've brought her cage into the chosen confined space, allow her to come out. To appear less threatening and help gain her trust, lower yourself to your rabbit's level. The ideal way to interact with your pet rabbit is on the ground, according to Indiana House Rabbit Society. Rabbit training requires patience and takes time. Bribing the Bunny If you know your rabbits favorite treat, hold it in your hand and call her name. When giving commands, always issue the "come" command before your rabbit's name. For example, you might hold out the treat and say, "Come Fluffy." Keep your tone friendly and upbeat, rather than sternly ordering her to come to you. When you initially begin training, you might need to wave your hand in front of your rabbit to gain her attention. When she finally comes to you, praise her and allow her to eat the treat. With repeated practice, your bunny will equate hearing her name with receiving a tasty snack if she comes to you. Leaving the Rewards Behind After your bunny learns to come to you in short distances, began training her at longer distances. If you have a fenced-in area of your backyard, release her from the cage and issue the "come" command from across the yard. Or, issue the command from a different room of your home. Once she begins consistently coming to you when called, begin weaning her off the treats so she learns to obey the command without always receiving a reward. Hopping for the Best For the best results, always call your rabbit by her name rather than alternating with nicknames. You should use the same command each time, so she learns "come" means that she's expected to come to you. To protect your rabbit's health, only give her healthy treats, such as small pieces of fruit or vegetables. Avoid processed treats from pet stores that are typically high in sugar and artificial ingredients. Be patient -- some rabbits train faster than others." Read the full article at How To Train Your Rabbits to Come to You Free Shipping on Rabbit Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Grooming your pet rabbit on a weekly basis ( more often for some breeds and some times of the year) is not only a great way to bond with your pet bunny, but is also a very good thing to do to keep your pet healthy. It is very important to remove excess hair to prevent hairballs, which can be very bad for your pet rabbit. Gentle brushing and handling on a daily basis is not only enjoyable for your bunny, but it can help her get used to the entire grooming process.
So now that you know that grooming your pet rabbit on a regular basis is good to do, the next thing to determine is how to do it and what you need to purchase. Below is a list of Common Grooming Tools for Pet Rabbits that is on TheRabbitHaven.org website, "How often to brush a rabbit: Rabbits need to be brushed at least every three days. In addition to removing any loose hair, these brushing sessions help prepare them for the multiple daily brushings that they need when heavy sheds begin. (These heavy shed cycles may occur about three times per year or more). Rabbits will shed in different ways. Some rabbits will take a couple of weeks or more to loose their old coat of fur. Other rabbits will be ready to get rid of their old coats just a few days. Quick shedding rabbits require immediate grooming to prevent illness. Common tools used to groom a rabbit:
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