Maybe the first question to answer is - what is a Rabbitat? A Rabbitat is a sort of "Rabbit Playground", sufficiant to provide for the basic outdoor instincts of a pet rabbit, but in a structured and safe manner. Your Rabitat should provide your bunny with safe outdoor space to dig, chew, tunnel, expolore and graze, to name a few activities. The concept remains that a pet rabbit should still live indoors, but allowing her to have some outdoor playtime in your Rabbitat will give her a chance to live like a - rabbit! PetFinder offers the following on building a Rabbitat" "There’s no such thing as a blueprint for the perfect rabbitat, but there are a few features for the do-it-yourselfer to consider. Dirt – Domestic rabbits are descended from European rabbits, who live in groups in warrens, an underground network of interconnecting burrows and tunnels that they dig in the earth. Diggable dirt or ordinary garden soil should be high on the list of things you provide for your house rabbits’ happiness. Fresh-cut greens – Greens should not be a major component of your rabbit’s diet, but access to a variety of fresh foliage has both dietary and emotional benefits for rabbits. The objective here is to offer cut greens and flowers in a natural upright manner so that rabbits can stand up and stretch to reach the succulent leaves on the tops of the branches. Security – Your rabbitat must confine your rabbits while also providing shelter from the weather and protection from predators and the unwelcome attention of other animals and possibly unkind children. As prey animals, rabbits instinctively avoid open spaces where they feel unprotected, so locate your rabbitat in a shady corner of your yard, out of view of busy streets, neighbors’ dogs and overhanging tree branches where cats or birds of prey may hover. Even if secure inside an enclosure, a rabbit can die of fright if a predator is able to menace her at close range." Read the entire article: Designing a Rabbit Playground Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com
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Welcome to the wonderful world of having a pet rabbit! Pet bunnies make great and loving pets, but it is important to help train them like you would other pets, so they know what is acceptable behavior inside your home. When it comes to chewing and digging, both of which are natural bunny behaviors, it is important that they are trained for two main reasons. The first one is danger. If a pet rabbit chewed on an electrical cord, the result could be very bad. The second reason is damage. Naturally, you do not want your pet rabbit to damage carpeting, furniture, or anything else in your home! The House Rabbit Society offers the following: "During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to her home and let her (or them) come out when she chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don’t interfere with her if she wants to explore. And watch her carefully throughout the time she is out of her cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren’t simply challenging the rabbit to break through). If possible, provide something with a similar (or better) taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn’t move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn’t ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs. The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small “corner” or “tunnel” with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end-opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so her body runs the length of the box (providing she is large enough that her body doesn’t fit cross- wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging box (see the litter faq). Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures that they are, quickly learn." Read the entire article here: Training Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com To fully enjoy the relationship with your pet rabbit, it is best to keep your bunny indoors and to intereact on a daily basis. The time you spend playing, petting and grooming your bunny will pay off in a more pleasurable relationship for all. If you have the space to have a rabbit hutch indoors, then that will give your bunny plenty of personal space. If not, then choosing a rabbit cage, which I prefer to call a rabbit home, is a great alternative. You can also use a puppy training crate, providing it has a design that is both safe and workable for your pet rabbit. To choose the right rabbit home (cage), wikiHow offers the following suggestions: "Get an indoor rabbit cage. Indoor rabbit cages can often be restrictive for your rabbit. Make sure you have enough space in the cage for your rabbit. You should also be able to leave the cage open so he can get plenty of exercise. Give your rabbit enough space in his cage. There needs to be enough room for him to move around in the cage and lie down. The minimum size is three hops long and two hops wide. Of course, the bigger the cage, the better it will be for your rabbit. Make sure your rabbit has space for food, water, a litter box, and toys. He will need things to do and to eat and drink in his cage. Try a cage with a front door for your rabbit. Purchase a cage that opens either from the inside and/or outside. Cages with doors that open out enable your rabbit to come and go when he wants, whereas doors that only push in mean you have to get the rabbit out of the cage yourself. Make sure your cage has protection for the rabbit’s feet. Cage flooring can injure the rabbit’s feet, so provide soft material that can cover the cage flooring, such as an old blanket or towel." Read the rest of their informative rabbit care article: How To Choose A Rabbit Cage Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com The answer here, is a cautious "Yes". Some pets will just not mix well and good common sense needs to be used in these cases for the safety and wellness of all pets and people involved. There are some situations where pet rabbits can be introduced and get along with other pets in the household, such as other rabbits, cats, guinea pigs and even dogs. You must take the time to understand how the bonding process works, and take the time to introduce your pets slowly and carefully. The goal is a happy household without unnessary stress and a safe environment for all involved!
To begin the bonding process, Pet Care Tips.net offers the following: "The first thing you will need to do is find a companion for your rabbit. Male with female pairs seem to work the best for compatibility but female to female can also work. Male rabbits seldom get along with other male rabbits unless started as littermates. All rabbits should be spayed or neutered beforeintroductions begin. Start the bonding process before the rabbits are allowed to interact. Place the rabbits in separate cages in sight of each other. Let them get used to the presence of another rabbit for several days before actually letting them meet. Rabbit introductions should be done in a neutral territory. This is a place the existing rabbit has never entered. The room should be large enough for the rabbits to move around yet small enough so the rabbits can interact. Newly introduced rabbits may go beyond hand shaking; they may fight. You should have a water spray bottle and towels handy to break up any fighting. Do not break up fighting with your bare hands, as the rabbit may not differentiate whom he is attacking. Discontinue bonding session before bites result in injury. Rabbits may chase and show dominance behavior (mounting) during the introductions. These are normal activities to determine which rabbit will be the leader." Read the entire bonding process here: How to Get Rabbits to Get Along with Other Rabbits & Other Pets Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com As a proud pet parent of a pet rabbit, you will want to provide the best quality housing for your bunny that you can. We always encourage people to think of rabbits as an indoor pet, to provide them with a higher degree of safety and protection, plus to provide for more family interaction. Rabbit hutches work great in a den, bedroom, or in the basement or garage, which are better than outside. No matter where you place your rabbit hutch, The Rabbit House offers a few tips on choosing or building the right one for your pet rabbit:
"Many rabbit hutches have doors that are secured with a twisting section of wood. Unfortunately, this can easily become loose or a fox (or other predator) scratching at the door can open it. This style of hutch door catch should be replaced with proper slide bolts and in some cases with the addition of a padlock too. These can also be handy for preventing young children opening the hutch unsupervised. Another potential problem area can be the mesh sections of the hutch - this should be securely fastened and preferably weld mesh rather than chicken wire. You can attach mesh using U-shaped nails available from DIY stores. Mesh that has small holes (under half an inch) is best - larger diameters can allow cats (or other animals) to put their paws inside and claw at the rabbit. Rabbit hutches need to be raised of the ground to protect them from rising damp. If your rabbit hutch doesn't already have legs then you can make your own or some hutch manufacturers also sell separate legs. Another alternative are castors (wheels) designed for cabinets which should be available from your local DIY store. A lower tech solution is a brick at each corner. Where possible avoid hutches with thin plywood walls - these might be slightly cheaper but will need replacing much sooner than a strongly built tongue and groove hutch. Check the walls regularly for water stains and wear. The protective stain/varnish will need maintenance approximately every 1-2 years. Hutches should not be all wire; they must have an enclosed box/bed area for your rabbit hide in when frightened, feel secure when sleeping and snuggle up in cold weather. Hutches should have solid floors rather than mesh, which is bad for rabbit's feet. To make the floor easy to clean and protect it from urine, I would suggest fitting lino style floor covering. You may be able to obtain off cuts or pieces from the end of a roll cheaply by asking local kitchen/bathroom flooring suppliers. A slightly tougher alternative is vinyl safety flooring, which is used in many vet practices; it's a harder, more rigid, material and is non-slip. To fit the flooring you'll need to cut it to fit the base of the hutch and then fix it in place with either double sided tape or glue (tape is easier). To prevent your rabbit chewing or digging and lifting the lino you'll need to fit edging strips or battens where the wall meets the floor - like a skirting board. The edging will also hide any wonky bits when you didn't cut straight. There will be a variety of styles available in your local DIY store and they can be nailed into position." Read the entre article here: The Rabbit Hutch Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com As people become increasingly aware of how important a healthy diet is for us, it is logical that many pet parents are looking for more fruits and vegetable options to give to their pets. Pet rabbits are no different. Apples are certainly a tasty, yet healthy snack (or part of a meal) for us, so the question comes up - Can my pet rabbit eat apples?
A pet rabbit's main diet should consist of grassy hay, but Rabbit .org suggests the following guidelines for feeding apples or other fruits to your pet bunny: "Fruits can also be fed in small amounts. In the wild these would be special high calorie foods obtained only at certain times of the year. Fruits make great training treats! You also might choose to hand-feed the fruit portion of the diet as part of developing a close bond with your bunny and also to make sure he has an appetite every day. It is a great way to see if your bunny is feeling good when you observe if he takes his fruit treat every morning! If he doesn’t want to eat his treat, it is time to call your veterinarian. Remember that dried fruits are about 3 times as concentrated as the fresh variety so feed less of those. Rabbits, like many animals naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods such as those high in sugar or starch. This is a protective device from the wild days when they could never be sure when or if they would get the next meal. When a plant would produce fruit, it is for a limited time and all the animals in the area would want to gobble these gems up quickly! This means that rabbits cannot limit themselves when given sugary or starchy foods if left to their own devices! Overfeeding fruits can result in a weight gain or GI upset so it is up to you to feed these foods in limited amounts. An approximate amount of fruit to feed your rabbit is a teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight daily in one feeding or divided into multiple feedings. IMPORTANT: Before introducing any fresh foods to a rabbit it is best if he has been eating grass hay for a minimum of 2 weeks. The grass hay will help to get his GI tract motility and flora in good working order so that he will be able to accept new foods more easily. When introducing new fresh foods to any rabbit’s diet it is best to go slowly to allow the gastrointestinal tract and all its important microorganisms to adjust. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. It is rare for a rabbit that has been on a hay diet first, to have any problems using this method, but if you note softer stools that persist over a couple of days, then you might want to remove that food from your bunny’s diet. Keep a list as you go of the foods that your rabbit has successfully eaten; you will then have a handy shopping list when you go to the store!" The entire article can be read at Suggested Vegetables and Fruits for a Rabbit Diet Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies from BuyRabbitHutch.com Once a person decides to become a pet parent, and commits to provide a loving, supportive and caring home for an animal in need, and they further understand the time and money commitment involved, then the next choice is to decide on what type of pet to adopt. By all means, dogs and cats living in shelters should certainly be considered and the simple act of animal adoption makes you a person of great character. But in addition to dogs and cats, rabbits should certainly be considered too.
Then comes the question of the hour - Do Rabbits Make Good Pets? To help answer this question, Rabbit .org offers the following: "People who haven’t lived with rabbits often ask those who do if rabbits make “good pets,” and if so, if they are more like dogs or cats. Most house rabbit people don’t quite know how to respond to these questions, not only because we have transcended such mundane matters in our own relationships with rabbits, but also because the chauvinistic nature of the questions themselves makes us feel uncomfortable. It seems that for most people, an animal is perceived as a “good pet” if she shows affection in ways human beings can understand without much effort (e.g., lapsitting or coming when called), if she participates in games humans easily comprehend (“catch,” “fetch,” or “chase the string”), or if she makes an obvious effort to communicate vocally (barking to be let in or out, mewing for supper). People usually seem fairly sure these qualities cannot be expected in a rabbit, and hence, that rabbits would not make “good pets.” Alternatively, some people expect such traits in all rabbits and may be disappointed in one who is unwilling or unable to comply with their expectations. The second question, “Are rabbits more like cats or dogs?” is a natural to follow the first. My usual response is, “Are people more like fish or cockatoos?” After all, rabbits are, first and foremost, like rabbits, and the only way to find out what they are like is to live with one or more. You’ll find that rabbits share a few characteristics with dogs, a few with cats, and a few with humans. They probably even share a few with fish and cockatoos. But mostly they’re like rabbits, and learning what rabbits are like is part of the joy of living with them. The fact that this question, like the “good pets” one, is asked at all makes clear the human position that in order to be considered of value in our world, other species must conform to our notions of what is “good.” The entire article is available at What Are Rabbits Really Like? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com For many areas of the country this summer, we have had some pretty hot weather. As a responible pet parent, it is critical that you take steps to keep your pet rabbit cool, especially during times of high heat. But hot weather and rabbits do not mix well, so it is always best to plan ahead, take the necesssary steps and keep your bunny cool!
HopperHome.com offers the following tips in Buns In The Sun: "Made for Shade: Keep your rabbit out of the sun and have a cage in the shade. Indoor rabbits with direct sun into their cage or pen in the summer need to be protected, too. Heat passing through a window doesn't escape back out so the room heats up. If you let your rabbit run in the garden in the summer, have a shady place for it to rest. Fans: A fan that will pass a breeze by the rabbit is great and particularly a circulating fan so the breeze isn’t constant. Groucho spends his summer by his own personal fan. Don't put the rabbit's cage in front of an air conditioner and so they really "chill out!" Be sure to bunny proof the cords! Less Fur: On long-haired rabbits – give them a "hare" cut for the summer. Also, brush hair out of a bunny’s coat so there isn’t extra. After all, that is a fur coat your rabbit is wearing in the summer. Vegging Out: Vegetables help keep rabbits hydrated so make sure they are getting plenty. Rinse the vegetables and leave the water on them. Be sure they don't get too warm and remove if they look wilted. Cool Spots: Ceramic tiles, marble tiles or brick/cement pavers in the x-pen (puppy pen)/large cage or in a favorite spot are cool areas for lounging rabbits. Water: Put a couple of ice cubes in their water crock or bowl – this will keep their water cool and the ceramic crock will be nice for them to lounge next to when it gets too warm. My rabbit, Rosemary, used to take them out to lick them on the pen floor. Mist Ears: Rabbits dissipate heat through their ears so you can mist them to help them keep cool. Don’t make them wet – just mist occasionally. Plant misters work well. A spray bottle full of water will scare a rabbit. Cool Buddy: Freeze a few 1 liter pop bottles full of water and then put a thin sock over the bottle, then get wet under the faucet and put it in the rabbit’s area. Rabbits will lay next to the bottle to cool off. I keep one or two in the freezer all summer and rotate in the rabbit pen. Rosemary and Groucho shared theirs by laying down with their bottle "ice cube" between them. Hops is pictured next to his "cold buddy." (Yes, that is a hole in the sock.) Heat Stroke: If your rabbit gets heat stroke, mist his ears. Absolutely no cold baths or showers! Call your vet immediately!" The entire article is available at Buns in the Sun Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Having a pet rabbit can be a wonderful experience for you, your family and your bunny. When you bring a pet rabbit into your home, it is important to make sure that as many potential hazards are removed, just like you would with a new dog, cat or baby. Buunies chew, bunnies hop and bunnies like to play - all these make for a fun personality but can also get them into trouble. By simply taking the time to identify and address any potential dangers in your home, your pet rabbit will live safer and your family will reduce their stress levels!
One of the biggest dangers in your home are electric cords. the House Rabbit Society offers some great advice on rabbit-proofing: "Why is rabbit proofing your home so important? Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow. So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach? Spiral cable wrap Radio Shack sells something called “spiral cable wrap”. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm for most, but not every bunny. (Some still manage to chew through it.) This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, video game, extension, lamp and other cords. I keep my portable computer cord wrapped this way, and it’s not too bulky. Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with “swamp coolers”) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available. Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well. Of course, Wires can be run behind or above furniture and carpets, but do NOT run your wires under carpets, as this can create a serious fire risk. How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants? Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal." Learn about the additional risks at home for your bunny and how to handle them at What Does Rabbit Proofing Involve? Free Shipping on Rabbit Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com Your pet rabbit's teeth are directly related to your rabbit's health. Her teeth continue to grow all the time, and a good bunny pet parent should keep an eye on her teeth, and take steps to help them wear down naturally. It helps to have a bit of insight about a rabbit's teeth, as well as the steps that you can take to make sure your pet rabbit stays healthy!
Did you know that providing clean grassy hay is one thing that you can do to help your bunny's teeth? See what else you should know about your pet rabbit's teeth from the PetCareTips.net site: "If you have pet rabbits, you probably know that a good rabbit keeper must always be concerned with their teeth because the condition of their teeth so much affects their health. Here are some basic facts about rabbit teeth. * Adult rabbits have twenty-eight teeth. There are two pairs of incisors in the top front of their mouths, with the second pair being much smaller and behind the large front teeth. There is also a pair of incisors at the front of the lower jaw. * Rabbits don't have canine teeth, but they do have premolars and molars, called "cheek teeth". (Useful note: There is a good-sized space between the incisors and the cheek teeth that helps when you need to give the rabbit food or medicine by syringe.) * Unlike our own teeth, rabbit teeth have no enamel and wear down quickly. The teeth of rabbits are also "open-rooted," meaning that they never stop growing throughout the rabbit's life. Happily, the nerves in rabbit teeth stop just below the gum line, so the constant wearing doesn't cause the rabbit any pain. * Rabbits have a strong instinct to gnaw, and domestic rabbits should always be supplied with plenty of clean grass hay as well as nontoxic wood branches or toys for gnawing, in order to prevent overgrowth of the incisors." The entire article is available at Everything You Should Know About Pet Rabbit's Teeth Free Shipping on Pet Food & Supplies at BuyRabbitHutch.com |
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